We are meeting Neko & Ziggy for lunch at a former hunting lodge in the heart of the Somerset Levels called The Devonshire Arms. This place is at one side of the village green in the small but picturesque village of Long Sutton.
At the bar I find Rare Breed from Butcombe Brewery is available and I order a pint. The menu is quite short but more interestingly constructed than those you find in many country pubs. The landlord offers Rock a variation of the sea bass dish on the menu – her fillet comes with leeks, a medley of vegetable bricks and a sauce vierge. I have the confit duck leg dwelling on creamy mash, pickled red cabbage, greens & herb jus. Neko & Ziggy both order the organic English beef burger that is tenanted alongside Westcombe cheddar, salsa & home cut chips.
The sea bass is beautiful and it is great to find a kitchen who do not have to stick rigidly to a menu. My confit duck is fabulous and so are the burgers. I steal some of Ziggy’s chips because she is raving about them. I can confirm that these chips are built to the highest quality standard.
For dessert Rock and I share the treacle tart detached from a flat of lemon curd and homemade buttermilk ice cream. Neko & Ziggy share an estate of vanilla, chocolate and praline ice creams each housed in ceramic pots. The treacle tart is to die for, the lemon curd is sharp and a perfect contrast to the ice cream. The ice cream is great in itself.
A beautiful village, a friendly hotel & pub that serves really fabulous food. We will definitely be back!