It is our final night in Copenhagen and we want to finish in style. We are having dinner at Den Lille Fede in the Indre By area of town. There are two set dinner menus – 5 or 7 courses of modern Nordic cuisine. Usually, if we both have a starter and a main, we will have no dessert or share one. So, 5 courses should be more than enough for us.
The décor is rather dark and traditional but there is a great buzz from the open kitchen and people are clearly enjoying themselves. The approach of using a set of seasonal ingredients, that change each month, to create the menu here is similar to that used at Aizle in Edinburgh. We loved that experience – so our hopes are high.
The first course is described as a creamy crab-corn soup with a crunch. The soup is rich with the flavour of crab and the crunch comes from something resembling a rice cracker but clearly not from a packet. It is a perfectly light and delicate crunch accompanied by a rich crab alioli.
The next dish – mackerel with peach, radish and savoury herbs – is a work of art. Full of colour and beautifully presented. The lightly grilled mackerel works fantastically well with the pieces of marinated peach, fresh radish and green herbs. Wow!
Chicken with summer leeks and gooseberries arrives and looks much more exciting than it sounds. There is slowly poached chicken breast and a boudin made from chicken thigh meat – both cooked with more savoury herbs. The breast & boudin are draped with purple, green and white leaves from cabbage, summer leeks and onion. All accompanied by a few braised gooseberries and some edible snow.
Three great dishes so far – can they make it four? Fresh cheese with fennel and brioche. We are expecting a local blue cheese but, when it arrives, the cheese is a whipped white affair and it is completely overwhelmed by the flavour and texture of the fennel. It is just not a dish for us.
For dessert we have strawberries with elderflower and milk. Another work of art – fresh strawberries over a strawberry coulis with elderflower ice cream, meringues, popping candy, spheres of elderflower jelly and a wave of strawberry jelly. Beautiful to look at and beautiful to eat.
Overall it has been a really good experience. All the dishes were fantastically presented. Apart from the cheese dish, we loved everything we were given and found the cuisine to be both modern and inventive. Den Lille Fede means little fat – certainly their dishes are fresh and light. Next time we’ll just have to try the seven course menu!